London’s museums, galleries and theatres have been closed for a prolonged period of time now. As a culture vulture, I’ve turned to some tried and tested methods (more books, more podcasts and many more documentaries!) But the weeks are passing and there’s only so many Tolstoy novels, crime shows and Planet Earth episodes even I can cope with.
The weather has improved, spring is here and I’ve decided - along with my veteran friend Steve - to explore the Parkland Walk nature reserve in north London. Not only will it be a great way to exercise in lockdown, it’s got some extra charm - in its previous life it was a railway line that ran between Finsbury Park and Alexandra Palace as part of the London and North Eastern Railway!
It first opened in 1870, and in the 1930’s was part of an ambitious plan to move people into the centre. But by 1954, the last regular passenger service ran and the line was abandoned.
What better way to spend an afternoon than exploring it?
The complete walk amounts to just under 8.5 kms (just over 5 miles).
Today I’m going to be wandering from Finsbury Park to Highgate (in part 2, I’ll continue onto Ally Pally).
The entrance (left) even has a nice little NHS sign next to it, reminding us of lockdown conditions!
On this stretch of the walk, there’s plenty of evidence of the once-railway line - including platforms and old benches. Now, it’s incredibly green and verdant, and you can hear the birds chirping and feel how clean the air is.
As you walk further along, you spy real life evidence of the old train line, in the form of benches and old platforms.
The tunnel structures are covered in brightly-covered graffiti and if you peek over the bridges you walk across, you’ll see beautiful Victorian houses which line the streets of the bourgeois Crouch End and Highgate neighbourhoods.
The reserve is also home to endless species of flora and fauna - over 200 kinds of flowers alone, as well as birds, foxes, hedgehogs and (it’s rumoured) the occasional Muntjac deer.
At a certain point, the trees form a huge canopy over your head - we’ve been walking in warm and sunny conditions but suddenly there are only a few chinks of light.
And then I look again and suddenly light is flooding through the branches, hitting the leaves of horse chestnut trees and creating a glorious dappled effect.
No doubt this is what makes Parkland Walk such a wonderful place to escape stress and anxiety, year round. But now, in these strange times, it is an oasis of calm for me. And whilst we are not alone by any means, for sure it’s a lot less quiet than the Royal Parks and nearby Hampstead Heath.
Here’s another short video of the endless trees around us, and the two of us pondering the whats and whys of how they came to be. I’m not so clued up but Steve is a bit more of an enthusiast - he even has a Tree App on his iPhone, giving him little hints as to what he might have spied.
As you arrive at the end of this section there are old tunnels which lead through to Highgate tube. However, they’re blocked off - not because the authorities are killjoys, but in fact to protect some furry mammals that live there. Yes, the tunnels are home to a veritable bat cave…
Walk up the path, past Boogaloo Bar (which stands out from the outside because of its rather striking black and white skeletal graffitti!). I’m weary and thirsty and I’d happily grab a caffeinated beverage there now but, like everything else, it’s shuttered. Ten metres more and you’re back in the heart of urban London, on the extremely busy Archway Road.
It’s been a great walk but I’m ready to rest, so the next part of the trek will have to wait. With luck (and good weather) I’ll be back here next week (along with my trusty friend) to explore the section that runs through Highgate Woods, up to Muswell Hill and all along to Alexandra Palace. (And this time, I’m bringing a thermos of tea!)
Watch this space…