I’m angry. Where will it end? Will women soon find themselves afraid to dress as they choose, for fear of being castigated on the streets? Will more and more public spaces end up being given over to men, marginalising us even further? Will toleraance and liberalism have no more place in my country?
The Reef is home to a group of ‘bottlenose’ dolphins, all born there and left to their own devices. It’s entirely their choice whether they want to be in contact with visitors, by swimming up to the piers or approach guided tours of snorkelers and divers. Their daily routines include playing, socialising and even courting...!
It’s hot and sticky and suddenly the air is charged. Then, out of nowhere, I see horses charging towards protestors and hear an enormous ‘bang’ about 100 metres from me (yes, really that close). People are screaming, yelling, running for cover. It transpires that a cop has thrown a stun grenade into the crowd (without permission) and it’s hit someone on the side of his face - his ear…
As far as the eye can see are blue and white flags, with the iconic Star of David symbol in their middle, held high by thousands and thousands of people who, like us, have travelled from out of town to make our voices heard. From the north and the south of the country, they’ve made long, exhausting journeys. Many have taken a day’s leave from work. Many more have brought their children and quite a few women have tiny babies swaddled to their chests…
If this legislation is passed, it means that the government can override any decision the Supreme Court makes…with a simple majority (that is a majority of one vote). What it might open the door to does not bear thinking about…att the very least, it means a concentration of power in the hands of any ruling party. At its worst, it means an end to Judicial Review. In effect, the government will shackle the courts…
The phone kept ringing. Everyone knew I lived on Dizengoff. The night wore on. The the police and army’s fear was that the gunman would break into a nearby building, in the hope of taking hostages. Soldiers from an elite unit soon arrived, informing us all from the street below that, under no circumstances, could we leave our homes. All traffic in and out of Tel Aviv had been stopped and my block had been cordoned off…
Kusama has, over the years, suffered from panic attacks, hallucinations and had more than one nervous breakdown. These began when she was not even in double digits - as early as aged 7, Kusama heard dogs, pumpkins and violets talking to her (indeed, pumpkins would become one of her leitmotifs, later in her career) and had auras where all around her, she saw objects glittering…
I am truly astounded by what I find, as I go out on ‘collecting’ missions. Bell peppers that would sell in the stores for 10 NIS a kilo ($43). Potatoes, onions, tomatoes, bananas, carrots, orange and pears…sometimes slightly bruised, sometimes in a box where just one is damaged, sometimes in optimum condition and clearly just ‘leftovers.’ On a recent mission, I picked up 12 boxes of strawberries - most were perfect, a few were squishy but none were rotten…
I thought I was alone in my feelings - the despair, the horror, the disgust, the sheer terror…apparently it is not just me. As far as my eye could see, there were people with placards, flags, instruments…so many young people (who have a reputation in Tel Aviv for being more interested in cocktail bars than politics), just as many older people and families with small kids too.
The tiny streets are full of nooks and crannies - whichever you turn you’ll see something beautiful. Art galleries and artists' workshops are everywhere, selling beautiful (if not costly) merchandise. And now, with it being spring, bougainvillea is everywhere...
It’s at this point that you’ll spy Daniel Kafri’s marvellous “Statue of Faith” - on it are carved three historic Biblical scenes - the binging of Isaac, the Fall of Jericho and Jacob’s Ladder. Made from Galilee stone, and with a gate-like structure, it represents the “Gate of Entry” into the Promised Land, bringing to life stories of the three Patriarchs - Abraham, Isaac and Jacob...
I still can’t quite believe it when my flight is called at the gate. I won’t be completely sure I’m off until the plane gathers speed. But the line forms and we pass through, onto the shuttle bus and then arrive at the aircraft. I take my window seat, get comfortable and lean back. Yalla Israel - I’ll miss you but it’s really time to hit the road…
When the app sounds on my phone (setting off another wail, in case I sleep through the city siren) at 3am, the routine is now predicable: I throw on the nearest clothing I have to hand, grab my phone and, without even looking for my keys, run out into the hall. I hear other doors slamming and then see the familiar faces of my neighbours…
Founded in 2010 by three foodie entrepreneurs, it's packed to the rafters with fresh, local produce and an enormous range of products - fresh fish, creamy cheeses, pastas, sweet treats and - of course -fruits and vegetable...and In keeping with their ethos - responsibility and sustainability - everything is seasonal...
Israel isn’t out of the woods yet but, ahead of the rest of the world on the vaccine front, the locals came out in force for Purim, the one day of the year when grown men and women (as well as every child in Israel) feel free to dress in outlandish costumes, drink more than they normally might and party like it’s going out of style.
These photos were captured in Tel Aviv’s Carmel Market, where impromptu parties sprung up in all the side streets. I wasn’t looking for the most fabulous costumes, more a snapshot of peoples’ emotions…which after 12 months of sadness, often verging on despair, looked incredibly happy…
I know the world’s eyes are on Israel, that we are the guinea pigs of Pfizer and that our data is being handed over for careful monitoring. But I really don’t care. We don’t live in a perfect world and after almost a year of exhaustion, gloom, fear, insomnia and occasional despair, I am ready to take my chances. It’s baby steps I know - it will be a long time before I can pick up my backpack and head off to South East Asia, Latin America or Europe but, nevertheless, the palpable sense of relief I have, at this point, is hard to describe.
I’ve never once noticed these strange mushroom-shaped palm trees…I’ve travelled the world and never - to the best of my knowledge - seen trees like that. Has it actually taken a global pandemic to make me observant again…observant in the way I am when I’m off in far-flung climes, seeing things that I expect to be unusual, merely because I’m travelling instead of on my own doorstep?
There’s nothing like a little street art to brighten up your mood in these sad Corona times. Here’s a few of my favourite shots taken in Tel Aviv’s ‘Nahalat Binyamin’ neighbourhood, ranging from the quirky to the political to the beautiful to the downright eccentri…
But back to the street art. Some of it is quirky, some edgy, some political…Einstein meets 1930’s Berlin decadence meets 21st century consumerism meets graceful giraffes and long-necked flamingos. One thing is clear - Tel Aviv is full of inspired and talented artists…
The silence from Dizengoff now feels overwhelming. When your ears are assaulted by urban noise on a daily basis, you learn to adjust. Anyone who’s ever lived in the centre of Manhattan, London or Berlin will tell you the same. Horns blaring, buses roaring by, pedestrians chatting, neighbours yelling and bikes revving - it’s all par for the course here…
On the menu today is falafel, tahini, roasted eggplant (made in two ways) and tabouleh salad and everyone in the group is dying to don their apron and get to work. Andt that’s the beauty of Loca Local - whether you’re a pro or a beginner it doesn’t matter - and the fact that I’m cooking with a professional chef and a food blogger is all part of the fun…
And, trust me, as you stare at the lush green lawns, surrounded by immaculately-tended flower beds, the glittering gold dome of the Shrine of the Bab and the turquoise blue of the Mediterranean, you’ll begin to understand the allure. The dome in the mid section of the gardens actually holds the remains of the Bab…the gardens are designed in an eclectic style, fusing the tradition of the East with the proportions of the West. (Italian stone, and precise symmetry).
Dizengoff is the heart of Tel Aviv, lively, bustling and full of character. Stretching all the way from Ha Bimah, the city's national theatre, to the Namal (the Port), you could wander here leisurely and lose all track of time,..
The kids seem to love it though…and over the course of three hours rotate from one activity to another. After basketball there’s lacrosse, then football (or soccer as the Yanks call it!), followed by banner-painting, bouncy castles and face-painting. And, least I forget, volunteers are running popcorn and candy floss stands which are, of course, an enormous hit...
Walking around Floretin, you'll notice how much of the artwork you see if painted on the gates and doors of businesses. Most of the artists are anonymous but a trained eye can spot signature pieces, according to themes. Edgy, creative and often very provocative, enjoy the wildlife, cubes and even Alice in Wonderland on your wanderings...
With its maze of one-way streets, public transport is scare, which makes Florentin a great place to explore on foot. Don’t miss the fabulous Levinsky Market (selling spices, nuts, grains, olives etc, Anita - a legendary ice cream shop (think fig, halva and date flavours), complete with chandelier, and bespoke furniture stores...
Tucked away in a tiny, secluded courtyard, close to Jaffa’s famous Clock Tower, you’ll find this ‘garden wine bar.’ This is a real local’s place, that serves as a deli in the day (cheeses, pates, breads, olives, etc.) and a wine bar/food joint by night. Great atmosphere, very laid back and an easy place to fall into conversation with other customers...
There’s some serious mixology going on at this bar, with owners Daniel and Ben offering a friendly yet intimate service to their patrons. Every cocktail you’ll drink here is creatively made, and beautifully presented, and the Carribean decor (pineapples and palm trees) is great fun too! Try the ‘Red Nose’ (gin, rum, clover bitters, hot chilli syrup and smoked paprika...)
Look around - you'll see small pools of water, strange-looking algae and astonishing rock formations not to mention clusters of Poplar trees in abundance. And then, before you know it, the canyon walls will have "closed in" on you and the sight before your eyes will make you sigh - an enormous pool of water, at the end of which is a waterfall of over 15 metres high...
The Scrolls are considered to be of extraordinary importance due to the tremendous insight they give us into Jewish society in Israel during the Hellenistic and Roman periods, as well as the origins of rabbinical Judaism. Written in Hebrew, Aramaic and Greek, they encompass a variety of subjects and literary styles. They also include fragments of manuscripts from almost every book in the Hebrew Bible...