Week nine of lockdown in London and I’m passing the days by exploring the city (by bike or on foot) and - as often as not - seeking out places I’ve never before visited. I’m now back to continue the Parkland Walk Nature Reserve trail with my trusty friend Steve, meeting at the Boogaloo Bar (where last time we said our goodbyes).
This part of the walk will take us through leafy Highgate Woods, into bourgeois Muswell Hill and, eventually, up to Alexandra Palace (‘Ally Pally’).
Highgate Woods is a pretty place to explore - it’s not as grand as Hampstead Heath but its verdant and cool on a hot day like this.
Essentially, it’s 70 acres of ancient woodland, which was (many moons ago) part of the ancient forest of Middlesex (which then covered a large part of London).
Here you can walk in the shadow of incredibly high trees and - even better - all the footpaths are natural (no concrete or granite here!)
There are many species - we spotted beech, plane, oak and hornbeam alone - and there’s lots of wildlife - butterflies, squirrels, as well as foxes and bats (which are probably more nocturnal). Here’s Steve, pondering the foliage once more…
There’s a tiny sign on Cranley Gardens - home of the notorious British serial killer Dennis Nilsen - pointing to the Parkland Walk, but which we miss it, since we’re too busy chatting.
Inadvertently, we end up on Muswell Hill Broadway.
I don’t mind too much because I love the architecture of this area.
It’s full of large Victorians with their red bricks and bay windows, and the facades above the chi-chi stores on the main drag are wonderful.
There are also fabulous views of London from here, which never cease to make me smile.
And then I catch sight of - a pick axe.
Yes, you read me right. A huge pick-axe, slap bang in the middle of the pavement.
Steve and I both stop dead in our tracks.
We stare in astonishment. This is a peaceful-tree-lined suburb where the cheapest houses go for over a million quid. This is really not what you expect in such a genteel neighbourhood!
After much speculation, we realise that we’ll probably never know!
Unfortunately, because of Corona, it’s currently closed to the public. But it is a wonderful place to end our walk. We lie on the grass outside, basking in the sun.
As he noted - the bark of this tree is really motled - normally you’d expect it to be a lot smoother. Perhaps it’s diseased?
Highgate Woods also has meadow where you can lounge and sun yourself, a football pitch and a cafe (which were popular, pre-Corona, at the weekends).
Onwards and upwards to Muswell Hill - where we inadvertently lose the trail.
Trying valiantly to make our way back to the trail, we head down one of the pretty sidestreets that lead towards Ally Pally, tree-lined with pretty gardens (full of lilacs and rhododendrons) and windows with plantation shutters.
It’s peaceful, sunny, the birds are chirping and the sun is shining brightly. It’s the kind of day when (Corona aside) you can’t help but feel good.
I stop and smell a pink rose - the fragrance is heavenly.
Finally, we resume the trail at the entrance to Alexandra Palace.
Ally Pally was built on the site of what was once Tottenham Wood (part of the Manor of Tottenham, dating back to 1619 and then valued at the princely sum of £776).
Built to be a public recreation centre i.e. a ‘People’s Palace’ (in fact, a north London counterpart to south London’s Crystal Palace) it opened in 1873, before burning down a mere two weeks later! It was rebuilt and used by the BBC in the 1930’s, named a listed building in 1996 and today boasts an ice-rink, Palm Court (very Victorian!) and astonishing views of London.
I’ve exercised, socialised (appropriate distance of course), smelled roses and found a pick axe on a side street. I feel satisfied…