Today I’m wandering around Munich's largest and most famous outdoor market. Situated in the city centre, a stone’s throw from the touristy Marienplatz (with its figurines that come out and dance, on appointed hours), I’m at the Viktualienmarkt, which is less of a tourist hotspot than you might think.
For sure, it’s popular with tourists (partly because of its location and partly because it’s so attractive).
However, the fact is that this is a market beloved by the people of Munich, who come here not just to buy artisan products but to linger over a coffee, a beer with friends or even stop for a bite at one of the endless eateries here.
A little history. Since the 19th century there’s been a food market in the historical part of the city.
It began in the main square - Marienplatz - where local farmers and other vendors came to sell their wares.
This was the place you came to pick up fruit, vegetables, eggs and grains. With time, it diversified and fish, meat and fruits could be purchased.
Predictably, it grew to the point where there simply wasn’t enough space to accommodate all the stalls so, at a certain point, King Maximillian 1st commanded that an area be put aside specially for these vendors - and that area was between Frauenstrasse and the Heilliggesit Church.
During World War II, the market area was completely destroyed and by 1945, the area around the centre had more or less been reduced to rubble.
The general consensus, amongst the city movers and shakers and the general population, was that the market needed to be rebuilt. As a result of popular pressure, city funds were used to rebuild the area.
The market was renamed ‘Viktualienmarkt’ since, in Latin, ‘victualia’ means ‘groceries/food.’
Open six days a week (since Bavaria is quite a conservative state, strict labour laws decree that the market should be closed on Sundays) it’s a wonderful place to stroll. Yes, there are a fair few tourists but not actually as many as you’d imagine.
Since I understand German, and was able to ‘eavesdrop’ on a few conversations, most of what I heard was locals chatting with the vendors, and friends (all of whom lived in Munich or nearby) gossiping over coffee or a beer.
The market is a great place to buy fresh fruits and vegetables - they are a bit more expensive than shopping in a supermarket, of course, but this is the price you pay for helping local farmers.
It’s also an excellent spot to hunt out specialty products - pesto with truffle, French lavender, perfumed and fruit teas, all manner of cheeses and some excellent olive tapenades.
If you want to try out some of the local Bavarian cuisine, you’re in luck too. There are quite a few cafes and restaurants selling traditional ‘wurst’ (sausage) as well as pretzels and locally-brewed beers. And if you’re a vegetarian or not an alcohol lover - fear not. Indulge in some ‘kase spetzle’ (local pastas tossed with onions and Emmental cheese) or pick up a freshly squeezed juice.
There’s also a fabulous cafe which is perfect for the discerning coffee lover - Kaffee Rosterei - but I’ll be writing about that in a separate post.
For anyone with green fingers, there are also a number of florists, selling beautiful bouquets and all kinds of garden accessories (including some unusual glass ornaments).
Granted, by European standards, this is not an exceptional farmers market but it really is very pretty and, since it’s situated slap bang in the centre of Munich, you really don’t have to go far out of your way to visit it.
In fact, if you;’re staying nearby, I’d even advise skipping breakfast at your hotel and coming here to grab a bite.
To conclude, this is a pretty authentic market, where lots of local people seem to be shopping.
The produce really is top-quality and, like any market of its kind, when you buy here, you really are supporting small businesses.
Check it out!
