Having grown up in the leafy north London suburbs, East London always seemed like a faraway place. Although travelling there entailed nothing more than a simple tube or overland journey, I spent most of my free time in neighbourhoods far closer to home - Hampstead, Highgate and Camden Town. And if I did want to explore beyond these realms, it was to central London I travelled, to the bright lights of Oxford Street, the patisseries and cocktail bars of Soho and the concert halls and theatre of the South Bank at Waterloo, on the River Thames.
Now, back in London and having been given the opportunity to stay in an apartment in Old Street (fondly known by technies now as the ‘Silicon Roundabout’) it seems absurd not to get to know this area, which borders on Shoreditch and Hackney, a lot better.
It’s an East London flower market I head to first, bright and early on a sunny Sunday morning. Open from 8am to 3pm each week, Columbia Road is one of the city’s brightest and most beautiful markets - and a veritable paradise for anyone with green fingers.
Whether you’re in the mood for bulbs, houseplants, tulips, hydrangeas or orchids, trust me you won’t go home disappointed.
From the little I know about the area’s history, Columbia Road began specialising in flowers from the mid 1920’s onwards.
The fact that East London also had a strong Jewish presence (think Brick Lane’s Whitechapel area) meant that gaining a street licence for Sunday trading was a little easier and - much like Petticoat Lane, around the corner, close to Liverpool Street - the flower market quickly developed.
There are several things that make this place so appealing, in my eyes. Firstly, the sheer variety of flowers (as I said above).
It’s a floral feast for the eyes - tulips, sunflowers, geraniums, gerberas and roses at one stall, exotic purple, pink and white orchids at another, herbs (mint, rosemary, oregano, basil and thyme at the next) and then one with endless houseplants. And these stalls stretch far down the street…
All of them have odd names too - including the hilarious ‘Mother-in-Law’s Tongue’ (aka the Snake Plant). A helpful vendor fills me in - it’s a hardy succulent that originated in West Africa and is so-named for its tall, thick sword-shaped leaves (the pointed tip apparently symbolising the sharp tongue of the aforementioned relation!)
Secondly, the vendors are incredibly friendly. Apart from a lot of the banter you’ll hear between them and the customers (and I very much enjoy listening to it), you get the feeling that this is a genuine community.
The guys and gals who set up shop here each Sunday are independent traders and, as well as knowing their business, are as vibrant in their personalities as the colours of the orchids.
“Three hydrangeas for a tenner” and “Banana plants half price today” are shouts that ring out as you wander up and down the street and the fact is that plenty of the stall owners are part of family businesses, who have been trading (here and elsewhere in London) for generations. That, alone, is a reason for me to support them.
Thirdly, and following on from the above, Columbia Road isn't just a mecca for anyone with a green thumb (or in my case, someone with no green thumb but who simply loves gazing at floral displays). It’s also home to almost 60 independent stores in the street, selling everything you can imagine from gardening essentials (trowels, gloves, watering cans) to vintage clothing, handmade cushions, jewellry, ceramics, books and homeware.
And if you’re in the mood for coffee, you won’t be disappointed either. There are all kinds of places to grab a brew and a bite (or a serious breakfast), with artisan breads, Monmouth Coffee and French pastries easy to find. The only drawback is you’ll have to queue - and the later you arrive, the longer the queue is guaranteed to be.
Yep, by 10.30 am, this market is heaving (and I mean heaving) and if the weather is good (as it was when I arrived) you’ll be jostling for minimal amounts of space on the street. (watch out for your wallet too as, unfortunately, pickpockets love this market). Of course, jostling is all part of the charm of Columbia Road.
Now I’ve been back (and I haven’t been here for a few years) I remember why I like it so much.
Ok, it might have become a bit of a tourist trap but, still, there are still plenty of locals and Londoners who pitch up here on a Sunday to pick up houseplants for their salon, shrubs for their balconies or a couple of bunches of flowers for their mum, boyfriend or a special someone.
The only tip I’d give you when you visit (and I say ‘when’ because this isn’t an ‘if’ in terms of must-sees in London) is either go early or go late.
If you turn up early, you can miss the crowds. If you turn up late, it will be busy but you’ll probably be able to pick up a few bargains, before the traders pack up and head home for a well-deserved cup of tea.
After all, I assume most of them been up since the crack of dawn!
And if you’re still in the mood for wandering the mean streets, after this market, there’s plenty in the ‘hood - Shoreditch High Street, the mean streets of Dalston, or - a short bus ride away - Islington or London Bridge.
A Sunday morning well-spent, if ever I spent one!
If you’re travelling by tube to Columbia Market, get off at Old Street station (on the Bank branch of the northern line) and then walk for about 15 minutes. By bus, the 26 and 55 are excellent options and the nearest overground is at Shoreditch or Hoxton.