I don’t stay at hostels often these days (in my twenties and thirties, they were ‘go to’ establishments in pricy countries I travelled in) but whilst in South East Asia, I’ve been taking advantage of competitive prices and ‘treating myself’ to private rooms, with ensuite bathrooms, kettles, safes, comfy bedding and even flat screen tvs, for around $20-$25 a night.
Gramophone with exotic flower inside
Garden mannequin with a flower head
But I have to say that I had an incredible stay at the Silopsa Hostel in Nong Khai, which I sturmbled upon via the recommendation of a woman I’d met in Luang Prabang.
“It’s full of treasures,” she told me.
I wondered what she meant?
Chests full of gold, from ships that had sunk on the Mekong River years back? Stolen artworks from Europe? Priceless jewels from Khmer times?
Well, not quite, but nevertheless I wasn’t disappointed.
Red toy car
This ‘hostel’ has both dorms and private rooms but when I arrived (maybe at the end of the season?) it was almost entirely deserted so in some ways it felt I had the building to myself.
Old tis
The dorms (which I peeked inside) looked comfy and clean, wit privacy curtains and plenty of natural light - in fact, I’d have been happy to stay there. In the end, I was given a discount on a lovely room, with a balcony area next door, flooded with sunlight in the morning, and it couldn’t have been more comfortable.
But that’s not the best thing about this place - the real charm lies downstairs in their communal areas, which are filled with all manner of unusual objects, not to mention a front garden where you can sit and read, a cute little cafe - perfect for coffee and cake - and helpful, friendly reception staff who’ll even give you free bike hire, should you want to explore the city.
It seems to me that Nong Khai isn't much of a tourist hotspot - probably because most people cross the border and then head straight to Vientiane or onto Bangkok. And, true, there’s nothing special to see in this city but just wandering the streets, chatting to locals, strolling the promenade at night (watching the sky turn from dusky purple to inky black) and eating at local restaurants (where the food is consistently good and always cheap) is something that really gave me pleasure.
Casino machine and a very odd chair!
Bronze bust of a Thai politician
The fact that I was staying somewhere that was practically deserted meant I had the run of the downstairs…which is the perfect place for someone like myself (who loves antiques, vintage markets, thrift stores and junk shops) ro explore.
The hostel is a cornucopia of treasures - old typewriters, vintage teapots, Dutch clogs, a ‘casino style’ card machine, a mannequin adorned with flower garlands, old tv sets, a ‘wooden bicycle’ and a bust of a Thai politician (who he was I have no idea).
Oh, and a beautiful cat who curls up in an armchair much of the day but will be happy to be stroked, should he be in the mood!
Ancient Smith Corona typewriter
Artwork in a side room
Silopsa's feline resident
All around the hostel are artworks too (no idea who painted them - the owners? Local artists?).
Iit’s truly one of the most unusual and quirky places I’ve ever stayed (in any country across the world).
My only regret was that it was deserted and I had no-one to talk to about the objects all around me.
This really is a great place to hang your hat for a couple of days, if you’re travelling between Thailand and Laos… and I think it’s unlikely I’ll ever stumble across a place quite like this again in the years that follow.
A must-visit if you’re in the ‘hood.