One of the many reasons I love travelling solo is that I don’t have to compromise on any part of the trip - from how I travel (boat, train, local bus, scooter), where I decide to rest my weary head (I prefer small guesthouses and homestays to corporate chains and five star hotels) and how long I end up staying somewhere.
And so it is with Luang Prabang. I arrive without preconceptions and end up staying almost two weeks, such is the charm, beauty and tranquillity of the place.
With its name meaning ‘Royal Buddha Image’ it will come as no surprise to the visitor that there are as many as 33 temples in this ancient capital, founded 1,200 years ago,
And don’t get me started on the architecture - a fusion of whitewashed French colonial villas, traditional Laotian wooden structures and - as you can’t help but notice - beautiful Buddhist pagodas. Yes, there’s a reason this city was given UNESCO World Heritage Status in 1995!
A little history.
Back in the 11th century, the settlement was known as Muang Sua, the capital of then Lang Xang (which means ‘One Million Elephants’).
However, this was changed to Luang Prabang after neighbouring Cambodia bequeathed it a gold statue of the Buddha.
This statue, named the Phra Bang, means ‘Delicate Buddha’.
You can see it today in one of the rooms at the National Museum, formerly the Royal Palace.
It hails specifically from Angkor., the capital of the Khmer Empire and home today to an impressive temple complex.
Today, it leaves its home each April when, at the time of the Lao New Year, it is paraded through the town’s streets and sprinkled with fragrant, purified water by Buddhist monks and local worshippers.
Unfortunately, I’ve rocked up in the city a bit too early for this particular festival but I hardly think I’m going to miss out, staying in what is clearly a slice of heaven in Laos.
For me, the beauty of my stay in Luang Prabang is the feeling I have that time has slowed down. I quickly begin to feel that there’s no rush to do anything. There’s lots to see, if I want to explore, but it’s just as easy to sit with an iced coffee, or a fruit shake, and let the peace and tranquillity of the place wash over me.
Indeed, sometimes I want to do nothing more than walk by the Mekong, staring at the river.
And when I do wander? Well, there’s exploring the Wats, strolling the streets and spying local school kids at play in their break, eating street food at the Night Market, exploring the backstreets close to the Mekong River (which distinctly remind me of the Yemenite Quarter in Tel Aviv).
And then long afternoon naps in my guesthouse, followed by strong coffee and a stroll to watch the sun set…reading up on the history of this little-known part of South East Asia….falling into conversation with locals and appreciating just how gracious, respectful and charming they are…wandering the night market and gazing at the brightly-colored lanterns.
Yes, Luang Prabang is easily one of the most lovely places I’ve ever visited in Asia.
And whilst I know that (much like my home city of Tel Aviv) it’s a ‘bubble’ and unlike any other place I’ll find in Laos, I don’t care.
Within a couple of days I have been seduced by this lovely town
In fact, if I didn’t feel the urge to see other parts of this continent, it would be easy to envisage renting a place for a month and staying put! That’s how much I’ve fallen for this city.
It’s also giving me time to think and reflect…which is something I’ve been craving for a while now. In the last four years, I’ve had to deal with Covid, the death of both my father and a close friend and political instability in my country followed by the October 7th massacre. I am mentally exhausted - and I didn’t realise to what degree until I arrived here.
Now, I remember how good it is to kick back - to eat well, sleep well, think positive mental thoughts and be appreciative. The days slip away, merging into each other, and I'm increasingly unsure of what day of the week it is. And that’s fine. I just want to enjoy every sight and sound that comes my way and hold fast to the Buddhist idea of living in the moment.
And as the Wise Guy remarked, we can only act in the present, not the past or the future. Spending time here has made me realise that this is no empty statement…