The rotunda is a perfect hemisphere, measuring close to 43 metres in diameter (which is exactly the maximum height of its dome).  It is such that a perfect sphere could sit inside It is estimated to have taken 4-5 years to build the walls…

Yes, it’s my view that Trastevere is best enjoyed by indulging in what I call aimless wandering. My recommendation is to set off without a cellphone, or even an old-fashioned paper map, and get yourself lost. Piazzas, churches, tiny streets…there’s nothing here that will fail to disappoint. And, personally, I could walk these streets every day for the rest of my life and not get bored. It’s really that beautiful…

The tiny, narrow streets are reminiscent of medieval times; its alleyways a veritable labyrinth.  Packed full of small stores (selling artsy clothes and bijoux jewellry), it’s the perfect place to get lost in Rome. Traditional thin-crust pizza, artisan gelato, splendid churches, hipster bars and coffee shops aplenty, it would take a true Hard-Hearted Hannah not to be charmed…

Inside, the tiered seating covered a huge underground area in which cages and machinery were based. The floor of the arena itself was wooden but covered in sand, which served a dual purpose - to stop gladiators from slipping, but also to soak up blood spilt after gruesome fights. Lions and tigers were hoisted up by winches, through some 36 different trapdoors, brought to Rome on barges that sailed up the Nile, a labour-intensive and costly exercise if ever there was one..

Even so, it doesn’t take long for me to find my groove and, soon, a small group has gathered around me. I switch from Gershwin to Scott Joplin, then Chopin and onto Beethoven.  Then a couple of pop classics, followed by some classic Elton John. I’m completely engrossed in the music, caught up in the thrill of sitting at a piano again and delighting at what my fingers can do at the keys.

After that, kids are taught the same sword skills that gladiators used, two thousand years ago.  Their tutors (a couple of handsome young men, in skimpy tunics) really made the training come alive with their skill and wit

Just a stone’s throw from the Spanish Steps (packed, year round), Via Margutta a far cry from the chaos that is central Rome.  Jam packed full of history and art, it’s an oasis of tranquility, and it’s beauty and atmosphere couldn’t fail to charm even the most cynical of visitors…