As a proud Tel Avivi, I’m often asked by friends who visit the White City what to do whilst here. And I’m never short of answers - with its pristine beaches, funky neighbourhoods and ‘foodie’ scene that’s taken the world by storm, I’ve always got a recommendation.
But a foodie tour of the Yemenite Quarter and the bustling Carmel Market, followed by a hands-on cooking class, using the very ingredients bought by us earlier? Even for someone like me, who barely opens her oven and struggles to cook the most basic of dishes, this sounded intriguing.
I wasn’t to be disappointed either, because spending a few hours with Tal Goring, my guide, left me sated and smiling!
Tal grew up with a love of cooking, she tells me, and learned much of what she knows from her Jerusalem-based mother who, in turn, learned to cook from her mother (who arrived in Israel from Iran, back in the 1950s). And whilst hi-tech was prestigious and well-paid, it wasn’t something she loved.
Born in Jerusalem, she’s gone from anthropology student to hi-tech marketer and now brainchild of ‘Loca Local’ - treating her groups to up-close-and-personal tours of the area that she lives and works in, as well as cookery classes that give participants the chance to make classic Middle Eastern dishes.
(Disclosure before I continue: the food she will teach you to make, and then serve to you, will leave you groaning with delight).
So a few months ago, she threw caution to the wind and opened Loca Local - offering tours of her ‘hood and cooking classes in her home - a classic ‘local’ experience.
The Yemenite Quarter (or “Kerem” as its known to the locals) has become one of Tel Aviv’s most hip and buzzing neighbourhoods but walking with Tal in the backstreets, really brings it to life. It’s her aim to show us something of the way it used to be - something ‘local’. She takes us past an old people’s home (its facade decorated with mosaics, by the local community), before we stroll in small squares, and walk through tiny, narrow streets where tiny unrenovated houses stand next to smart new developments.
As our tour continues, we’re treated to fresh juices from her friend ‘the Etrog Man’ (I recommend the berry and coconut), pick up a variety of freshly-made breads from the local Yemenite bakery (it’s been in the family for generations) and stop for a tasting at ‘Shlomo and Doron’ - a hummus place in the heart of the Carmel Market with a reputation that precedes it. I’m careful not to fill up though - because the fun hasn’t even begun yet.
From the Carmel, it’s a short walk back to Tal’s place, a cosy and stylish ground floor house on a quiet street. (Houses are few and far between in Tel Aviv, and the fact that this one even has a garden makes it a real find!) Inside, we all put our feet up, have a cup of coffee and Tal talks us through what we’re going to be doing.
On the menu today is falafel, tahini, roasted eggplant (made in two ways) and tabouleh salad and everyone in the group is dying to don their apron and get to work. (There are some real foodies in this group of mine, by the way, who I suspect will put my culinary skills to shame). But that’s the beauty of Loca Local - whether you’re a pro or a beginner it doesn’t matter - and the fact that I’m cooking with a professional chef and a food blogger is all part of the fun…
Tal has pre-soaked the chickpeas and roasted some eggplants and gives us an introduction - shes giving short demonstrations but it’s our hands that will be preparing the food. We mix raw tahini with lemon and garlic, chop vegetables for the salad and mix up various spices that are going to make our falafel extra tasty. I’m actually enjoying myself (and I am someone who constantly struggles in the kitchen!) Just as she promised, it’s much easier than it seems - and not hard too work at all.
By the time we get to the eggplant, I’m on a high. This is fantastic - I’m actually cooking! She shows us two ways to serve it - one chopped up in a dish (to be eaten with pita and celery, whilst watching Netflix) or a more stylish presentation, cut in half, with tahini inside and a sprig of parsley atop. It’s a thing of beauty I tell you - and I realise that this is going to be my new ‘go to’ dish, the next time I throw a party.
Once it’s all cooked, we sit down at a lovingly-prepared table and tuck into crispy, piping- hot falafel, soft doughy bread, succulent eggplant and a glass of Israeli wine. I’m sitting at a table with women from around the world, breaking bread, and I chopped the eggplant with my own fair hands!
In conclusion, what more can I say? This tour is perfect for anyone who want to know more about Tel Aviv’s Yemenite Quarter, all foodie lovers and even for individuals like myself who tremble at the thought of throwing an intimate dinner party. Tal isn’t just a damned good cook - she’s a fine teacher too, who’s there every step of the way, as you mix those spices and fry those chickpea balls!
Loca Local - cooking up a storm indeed.
You can book with Tal for a tour/cooking course at www.localocaltlv.com/