Israel’s third largest city, and the metropolis of the north, Haifa has a distinctly Mediterranean feel. Perched on the slopes of Mount Carmel, looking out at the sea, it doesn’t just have a history spanning over 3,000 years but also a major seaport, the country’s largest hi-tech park and the world-class Technion University.
Haifa’s relatively small - with a population of around 280,000, comprising both Jews and Arabs (who co-exist quite harmoniously) whilst it cannot boast the buzz of Tel Aviv, or the spirituality of Jerusalem, it still has plenty to offer. Here’s how I’d spend a ‘perfect day’ in the area
The Muhraka Monastery - located just under 30 kilometres from the city, in the Druze village of Daliat ha Carmel, this small, pretty monastery is the traditional home of the Prophet Elijah, an important figure in Carmelite history. Outside the modestly-decorated sanctuary, enjoy beautiful natural surroundings and a spectacular panorama of the Jezreel Valley and Galilee (on a clear day, if you’re lucky, you might even be able to see Mount Hermon!)
Photo courtesy of Yeudulich,com
For particularly good views, climb up to the roof, and look out from the standing platform. Alternatively, If you’re afraid of heights or simply looking for some calm, enjoy the tranquility of the courtyard and beautifully-maintained gardens. As you stroll around, notice that all along the sloped side of the mountain are pine, laurel and olive trees. Yes, it’s all about the view here!
Muhkara is is a must-see attraction for Christians pilgrims and really brings the Biblical stories of the prophet Elijah and his victory over the prophets of Baal to life. Shell out a couple of dollars (the nominal entry fee) and enjoy yourself.
The Bahai Gardens
Probably the city’s most beloved tourist destination, the stunning Bahai Gardens welcome hundreds of thousands of tourists each year. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is home to the world’s fourth largest monotheistic religion - the Bahai. A relatively young faith, it is considered mandatory for each adherent to undertake a pilgrimage to the gardens (indeed, many of those who tend the extensive grounds are volunteer gardeners, who have travelled to Israel on work visas).
Almost a kilometre in length, the gardens were designed by the Iranian architect, Shaba, and funded by donations from Bahai individuals around the world. Made up of nine concentric circles, each is home to small trees, sculptures, pools, water fountains and beautiful flowers. They are divided into three sections - at the top is the main gate (situated on the Louis Promenade). Then there is the middle section (home to the Shrine of the Bab). The gardens continue to wind their way down to the bottom of the hill, where they conclude at the German Colony.
Photograph courtesy of Igoogledisrael.com
And, trust me, as you stare at the lush green lawns, surrounded by immaculately-tended flower beds, the glittering gold dome of the Shrine of the Bab and the turquoise blue of the Mediterranean, you’ll begin to understand the allure. The dome in the mid section of the gardens actually holds the remains of the Bab (the spiritual predecessor to their most significant prophet, Baha’ullah) although it cannot be accessed by tourists. The gardens are designed in an eclectic style, fusing the tradition of the East with the proportions of the West. (Italian stone, and precise symmetry).
There are free, daily tours of the gardens, in English, Hebrew, Russian and French, which begin at the main gate and end at the Shrine of the Bab. They last 45 minutes but quite a few steps are involved, so be sure to wear sturdy shoes. (Also note that participants should be covered from shoulder to knee).
The Bahai Gardens are truly the jewel in Haifa’s crown and the bird’s eye views of the city that the tour affords really should not be missed.
The German Colony
Set at the foot of the Bahai gardens, and leading into the Haifa port, the German Colony is both a fashionable area and cultural centre. Founded by German Templars in the 1860’s, many of the houses in the area have been renovated to look much as they did in the 19th century. Described by some as a little slice of Europe, this area comes alive at night, since it is home to a myriad of restaurants and bars.
The Templars were a Protestant sect who arrived from south west Germany, determined to speed up the second coming of Christ by settling colonies in the Holy Land (in the event, they settled seven).
Particularly intriguing is that they did not (initially, anyway) build a single church in the area - they regarded each individual as a church to him or herself. Instead, they erected community halls. After their initial attempts at agriculture failed, they became involved in tourism and handicrafts. (Fun fact: they also set up carriage services between cities!) And whilst they may be long gone today, their stone buildings remain.
Photo courtesy of Jonathan Cohen, Ipernity, Feb 2018
The German Colony is particularly beautiful around Christmas, when a large tree is put up, and the entire area is strung with fairy lights.
If you’re a little bit more intrepid, venture just outside the area to Wadi NisNas, an authentic Christian Arab area of town, home to fruit and vegetable traders, bustling small businesses and some of the tastiest falafel in town. With its stone buildings and narrow alleyways, it has all the charm of the German Colony but with a more Levantine flavour!
Back on Ben Gurion Boulevard, the heart of the Colony, take a break at one of the many cafes and restaurants. Grab a bite, sip at a mint tea and savour the atmosphere, before wandering down to the port to enjoy a magnificent Mediterranean sunset.
The perfect end to a perfect day in Haifa.