It’s hard keeping your spirits up in lockdown. Truly, I could write endless posts on the perils of spending too much time alone in Corona times, but I’m resisting the urge at present. Rather, I’m trying to shift my focus to things that I love, things that I care about, places that experiences that bring me pleasure.
So today, unable to wander more than a kilometre from my doorstep, I’m visualising the day I’ll be able to stroll through Tel Aviv again, particularly in an area I’ve grown to like very much for in the last few years - Nahalat Binyamin
When I first arrived in Tel Aviv, over a decade ago, I rented a small apartment near this lovely pedestrianised street and spent many an afternoon strolling there.
I was charmed by its lovely buildings, twice-a-week craft market (where locals sell their own work - it has to be handmade and of special appeal - a committee oversees this requirement) quirky cafes and independent stores.
Founded back in April 1909, the street was set up by a group of creative types named the ‘Ahuzat Bayit’ - essentially the society that built Tel Aviv.
Nahalat Binyamin was the second neighbourhood they began building outside the Jaffa port (the first was Neve Tsedek - a little bit further south, and also brimming with charm).
There’s so much about this area that I love but, in particular, it’s reputation for street art has just kept growing and that’s what I’m focusing on today. Before the first, and most recent, lockdown, I would spend hours in this area, on the look out for new wall paintings. A few years ago it was Florentin where people headed, to see ‘edgy’ art…and I’m sure they still do. But as south Tel Aviv has become more gentrified, many of its buildings have been knocked down.
At the same time, I’ve heard (although I can’t verify it) that Nahalat Binyamin’s neighbourhood is actively encouraging artists to pitch up, even supplying them with brushes and paint.
Particularly in the spring (when the Jacaranda is out) and the Autumn (when bougainvillea is on every second tree) this neighbourhood is particularly lovely. The architectural style of the area is unusual - tiny houses sit next to huge old buildings (some of which are dilapidated, others which have recently been restored)with beautiful arches and wrought-iron balconies. Alongside them are a growing number of renovated buildings designed in a style that, to my mind, fuses modernity with elegance.
But back to the street art. Some of it is quirky, some edgy, some political…Einstein meets 1930’s Berlin decadence meets 21st century consumerism meets graceful giraffes and long-necked flamingos.
One thing is clear - Tel Aviv is full of inspired and talented artists.
This street art (or graffiti as some might like to call it) is now lining the walls of countless buildings in the neighbourhood, and it’s not just brightening up the scene, it’s often quite thought-provoking.
Just as enjoyable is that fact that the central street of Nahalat Binyamin is car-free…a real relief to Tel Avivis like myself (who have to circumnavigate traffic-clogged streets here every day).
As I wander the area, I can actually hear birds chirping - quite astonishing, considering we’re in the middle of the city, which is pretty lively in most parts…day and night.
In extraordinary times like these, I have to make even more of an effort to keep my spirits up and though I can’t sit in a sidewalk cafe in Nahalat Binyamin now, sipping an iced coffee before heading off with my camera, I can at least sit on my balcony, with my laptop, and take pleasure in the pictures I have taken to date. It’s such a dynamic street art scene that I’ve been witness too…it’s changing all the time and so what you see in this blog may not even be on the walls in a few months.
But that’s all part of the fun, no doubt, and a pertinent reminder not to take too much for granted…especially now.
The last piece here says it all…