The phone kept ringing. Everyone knew I lived on Dizengoff. The night wore on. The the police and army’s fear was that the gunman would break into a nearby building, in the hope of taking hostages. Soldiers from an elite unit soon arrived, informing us all from the street below that, under no circumstances, could we leave our homes. All traffic in and out of Tel Aviv had been stopped and my block had been cordoned off…
Israel isn’t out of the woods yet but, ahead of the rest of the world on the vaccine front, the locals came out in force for Purim, the one day of the year when grown men and women (as well as every child in Israel) feel free to dress in outlandish costumes, drink more than they normally might and party like it’s going out of style.
These photos were captured in Tel Aviv’s Carmel Market, where impromptu parties sprung up in all the side streets. I wasn’t looking for the most fabulous costumes, more a snapshot of peoples’ emotions…which after 12 months of sadness, often verging on despair, looked incredibly happy…
I’ve never once noticed these strange mushroom-shaped palm trees…I’ve travelled the world and never - to the best of my knowledge - seen trees like that. Has it actually taken a global pandemic to make me observant again…observant in the way I am when I’m off in far-flung climes, seeing things that I expect to be unusual, merely because I’m travelling instead of on my own doorstep?
The silence from Dizengoff now feels overwhelming. When your ears are assaulted by urban noise on a daily basis, you learn to adjust. Anyone who’s ever lived in the centre of Manhattan, London or Berlin will tell you the same. Horns blaring, buses roaring by, pedestrians chatting, neighbours yelling and bikes revving - it’s all par for the course here…
Walking around Floretin, you'll notice how much of the artwork you see if painted on the gates and doors of businesses. Most of the artists are anonymous but a trained eye can spot signature pieces, according to themes. Edgy, creative and often very provocative, enjoy the wildlife, cubes and even Alice in Wonderland on your wanderings...
Tucked away in a tiny, secluded courtyard, close to Jaffa’s famous Clock Tower, you’ll find this ‘garden wine bar.’ This is a real local’s place, that serves as a deli in the day (cheeses, pates, breads, olives, etc.) and a wine bar/food joint by night. Great atmosphere, very laid back and an easy place to fall into conversation with other customers...
There’s some serious mixology going on at this bar, with owners Daniel and Ben offering a friendly yet intimate service to their patrons. Every cocktail you’ll drink here is creatively made, and beautifully presented, and the Carribean decor (pineapples and palm trees) is great fun too! Try the ‘Red Nose’ (gin, rum, clover bitters, hot chilli syrup and smoked paprika...)
This 1920’s-style ‘Speakeasy meets Great Gatsby’ is uber-hip, with the bar staff as well-dressed as they are expert at mixology. Bellyboy Bar markets itself as a unique concept bar, with cocktails served in seashells and bathtubs (yes, I know it sounds bizarre but you have to see it to believe it!) and chasers served to guests out of a baby stroller that tours the lounge...
Located on 223 Dizengoff, this has got to be is one of the most stylish and atmospheric cocktail bars in the area. With its jazz and swing background music, and waiters in suspenders and bow ties, it’s designed to look like a New York ‘Speakeasy’ during Prohibition Era. Renown for its drinks, the professionally trained are all experts in ‘mixology...’
Neve Tsedek was, in fact, the first Jewish neighbourhood built outside the port of Jaffa, as far back as 1887. With people desperate to escape overcrowding, they moved south and built colourful buildings with low roofs. Soon, the area was attracting a host of artists and writers (including the Israeli Nobel Prize- winning author Shai Agnon...)
The rules were simple yet quirky. Anyone in the world who wanted to take part simply had to dress themselves in beach attire that they’d like to wear on a Tel Aviv beach, and take a picture of themselves in their own city. The picture had to include them holding up a sign with the hashtag #Takeme2telaviv and be uploaded to Instagram...
Looking around the CityKids Nursery School, it's clear that "hover" is not the word of the day. "We're not big fans of helicopter parenting here, either. We believe that today's child often ends up over-stimulated, a victim of the iPad-iPhone-cable TV culture. We take the view that kids should be transported back to a simpler time, and be allowed to be bored...”
As you walk through the door, the comforting aroma of brewing coffee combines with the enticing scent of fresh, crumbly chocolate-chip scones. The décor is homey and eclectic, beckoning you in. Behind the counter awaits a tantalizing array of muffins, bagels, cupcakes, buttermilk pancakes and biscuits. Welcome to NOLA Bakery, in the heart of Tel Aviv...
