Bangkok’s pretty congested, it can’t be denied, and many visitors flee the city after two or three days of exploration, because they’re desperate to escape the fumes, honking and general despair that comes with being stuck in horrendous traffic whilst trying to get from one neighbourhood to another.
But there is a way to get away from it all - and I’m not talking about the parks of Bangkok. No, it’s a South East Asian answer to the Manhattan ‘High Line’ and I’ve decided to see it for myself.
Having been told that it’s a symbol of innovation and urban renewal, I feel it has to be checked out. Here’s what I found out when I explored the ‘High Line’, wandering its pathways and discovering a whole other side to Bangkok.
Situated high above the chaos and cacophony of Thailand’s capital is Chao Phraya Sky park - a veritable ‘elevated oasis’ along which you can walk calmly. Yes, because it’s vehicle free.
The History of the Chao Phraya Sky Park
No doubt you’ve heard it before: “This is a story of transformation and vision, etc. etc.” but - actually - this particularly story is true! Bangkok underwent a remarkable urban development from the 1960’s onwards and the rapid growth, combined with a complete lack of regard for urban planning, left the city’s infrastructure in a rather haphazard state. Unsurprisingly, it became ever-more underused and neglected and overpasses were a particular casualty.
One, in particular, had served for a long time as a major artery for city traffic.
In the meanwhile, urban planners began scratching their heads since they were being begged by locals for more sustainable community-centred spaces, since few residents in the city had access to a private garden.
By the mid 2010’s, the concept for the Sky Park was born.
A grassroots movement (made up of local residents and city government officials) came up with the idea of repurposing an aging concrete framework into a vibrant green space.
A Sanctuary from Urban Chaos
It would become a sanctuary from urban chaos.
Nevertheless, Turning an aging piece of infrastructure into a state-of-the-art park was no small feat, which made the construction of the Chao Phraya Sky Park quite ingenious.
Landscape architects, town planners and civil engineers all burned the candle, contributing their own unique ideas towards the project.
After all, how would they rise to the major challenge of keeping structural integrity? They were dealing with a large overpass! In a bold decision, rather than demolish what remained of the old structure, engineers opted to carry our careful reinforcement - preserving the history of the underpass whilst looking to adapt it for new uses.
Another challenge was using sustainable materials - they had to be not just durable and aesthetically pleasing but also eco-friendly. This ieant using energy-efficient LED lighting along the pathways and installing an advanced irrigation system. They did it and as you stroll above the city, today, you’ll see lots of indigenous plant species gracing the paths and adding bursts of colour to the walkway.
Walking the Sky Park Trail
Making sure the High Line was safe and accessible was also a big deal.
Wide, gently sloping ramps and stairways were added to ensure that the park could be enjoyed by young and old, as well as those with physical disabilities.
Furthermore, the architects added many different entry points, to connect the project with a number of surrounding neighbourhoods, train stations and bus stops.
In mid 2020, it was officially inaugurated.
I have to say that I was amazed as I walked through Chao Phraya, not just feeling the history all around me but so many different aspects of modern Bangkok woven in.
As I walk along the elevated pathways, I can’t help but notice the city not just beneath me but around me.
What’s more, the clever design of the pathways really maximises the experience.
’m talking unobstructed panoramic views of the city’s iconic skyline…
I’m not a morning person but I’ve been told that walking (or running) there at dawn gives you the chance to see huge swathes of the city bathed in pink light, which must be glorious.
At noon and through the afternoon, the greenery offers a respite from the heat and bright sunshine that are a feature of this city. In the end, I went there in the late afternoon, and wandered until dusk turned to inky darkness and the city came alive with twinkling lights.
The park itself is divided into different zones, all offering the visitor a variety of experience.
You'll see sculpture and art installations as you walk along, and one particularly area has beautifully-maintained gardens, where trees and flowers native to Thailand all flourish. Even better, benches have been placed - strategically - all along the route, meaning you can rest your weary legs at intervals, or simply sit to pause and reflect.
I spy peoples’ homes, food kiosks, socks hanging from a pole (art installation or an ingenious way of drying laundry?) and occasionally get so close to a private dwelling I can almost peek through its window!
I also spy information plaques along the way and I’ve been reliably informed that, throughout the year, there are all kinds of events on offer, including yoga lessons for the community, art fairs and open-air concerts.
Personally, as a keen amateur photographer, I could imagine myself (if I lived in Bangkok) coming here at all hours of the day, to click click click away. Runners can also be in their element here, not to mention anyone who wants to escape the cacophony of frenetic energy of the city and seek out a little calm.
So, in conclusion, I urge you to visit the Chao Phraya Sky Park because whether you’re seeking astonishing views, looking to find out more about the culture and art of Thailand or just looking for an opportunity to walk in calm, green spaces in the midst of a capital city, this is the place to do it. And remember, this was once a neglected piece of infrastructure. This fact alone makes a visit here inspiring.