Not having planned ahead, I realise I’m going to be in Bangkok for Thailand’s traditional New Year celebration, known as ‘Songkran’. It’s - by any standards - the country’s most famous festival and I’ve already been warned that the streets are going to be “a bit mad” (note: after having gone out on the streets and experienced it myself, I can honestly say that “a bit mad” is the British understatement of all time).
There’s plenty going on but, above all, the festival is known for its enormous water flights that take place in squares, streets and parks across the country. How crazy could it be, I ask myself? (Read on if you want to know).
But first, a little history.
What does Songkran actually mean?
Songkran can be traced back to ancient Hindu and Buddhist traditions, especially in India. The actual word "Songkran" comes from the Sanskrit word "Saṃkrānti" meaning "astrological passage" or "move forward" and denotes the sun moving into the zodiac sign of Aries in the Buddhist calendar.
Over the years, it became associated with the ideas of renewal and ‘cleansing’ with an emphasis on paying respects to one’s elders and to monks (who occupy a sacred position in this country).
Many take these offerings to their temples.
And even though Thailand adopted the Western calendar in 1940, this Thai New Year event still ioccupies a special place in peoples’ hearts - espevially those who like to make mischief.
The Customs of Songkran
Contemporary Songkran festivities all seem to revolve around water fights, but if you look bcak you’ll find that there are many traditional customs. These include visiting temples (offering food to monks), engaging in good deeds (freeing birds, apparently, was one), and pouring fragrant water over statues of the Buddha (to symoblise respect and also the idea of cleansing).
Many children (with their parents) build sand pagodas in the courtyards of temples, and carry out the ceremony of ‘Rod Name Dua Hua’ - where younger people pour water over the hands of their elders, as a sign of respect and also in the hope of blessings.
On the streets over Songkran
OK, let’s cut to the chase. What’s it like to be out on the streets during Songkran?
Well, to sum up, I’d say that all you can do is adopt a ‘fight or flight’ motto.
Essentially, you have to prepare to get drenched. And I mean drenched. Venturing out onto the streets, I quickly realise I’m not properly dressed (yikes, I should have donned a waterproof jacket and wellies.) There are water wars everywhere - both locals and tourists seem to be armed with huge plastic waters guns and no-one is safe,
Seriously.
And it’s not long before I’m soaked.
I smile but - deep down - I think ‘Why am I not back at my condo, sitting by the pool with a book, rather than carrying out this ‘research’...?)
I turn a corner and see two people with hoses (!) and plenty of teenagers are chucking buckets of water over random, innocent passers-by.
Some are laughing.
Others look less thrilled. I also see certain individuals with white faces - I find out afterwards that it’s talcum powder mixed with water and to smear it on a friend’s face will bring them good luck.
I truly hope no-one will try and smear me! There’s only so much I feel I can cope with.
Watch Out!
Music is blaring, I see DJs setting up, food stalls everywhere and in other more raucous parts of the City (the Khao San Road and Soi Cowboy) I hear there are full on party-zones. Actually, even in Silom, where I am, it seems like an out-of-control party celebration.
And then it happens. I turn another corner and, before I know it, some wicked teenager drenches me with some icy water.
It might be 35 degrees outside but still I hate that feeling. I’m not smiling any more. I’ve only been out an hour and a half and I’m ready to flee. With no cabs in sight (and buses overflowing), I hail down a bike, strap on a helmet and tell him to get me home - pronto.
Luckily, my phone was in my backpack most of the time so my Samsung is intact. And, without realising it, I was lucky enough not to have donned revealing, see-through garments this morning.
As we roar along, I realise that the only ‘safe space’ on the streets of Bangkok today are the temples, which are more-or-less out of bounds, since, even in the midst of New Year celebrations, monks are to be treated with respect.
Twenty minutes later, I’m back in my comfortable apartment, with soaking clothes stripped off and ready to don my bathing suit and head off to the pool in the block.
And it’s empty!
No doubt the other residents are revelling. Good luck to them. It’s been fun but I can’t imagine subjecting myself to this again, should I ever return to Bangkok in April.
Still - it’s something else to tick off my bucket list.
In conclusion, my advice to anyone who’s considering venturing out on the streets over Songkran - you’ve gotta embrace the fun. There’s no other way to cope.
Conversely, if you’re a bit of a crosspatch, feeling slightly grumpy, or not a gregarious soul in general, I’d strongly advise you to stay home!