A Wander Round the Town - Ramallah Part III

A Wander Round the Town - Ramallah Part III

I figure it's time to make a pilgrimage up to the Mukata’a  -a two-block compound with a white tower that is seen easily from all over the city. In it are certain government offices but the big draw, of course, is Arafat's mausoleum, which is next door to the building where he was held under siege by the Israeli Army in 2002.  It's a quiet, yet grand area, complete with marble flooring.  A long courtyard leads you into his tombstone where (as long as you aren't obnoxious or disrespectful) photographs are allowed...

Across the Checkpoint - Ramallah Part II

Across the Checkpoint - Ramallah Part II

Amazingly, at the checkpoint itself, there are no guards from either side of the divide. It really is an 'empty' order.  I walk through a dusty, dilapidated area (that, for some reason, reminds me of an abandoned cow shed on my friend’s kibbutz). No-one asks for my passport, where I’m heading and whether it’s business or pleasure. All I see is a sign, stating that Israeli citizens should beware, as they are now entering Area A which, technically, is illegal...

"Off the Map" - Do Good Fences Make for Good Neighbours? Ramallah Part I

"Off the Map" - Do Good Fences Make for Good Neighbours?  Ramallah Part I

Why the wariness, I asked myself, the tacit assumption that crossing this fence was tantamount to taking my life in my hands? Would they have responded the same way, had I told them I intended to spend a weekend in Benin, Brazil or Bhutan? What was it about my impending trip just an hour up the road that filled them with secret, and irrational, dread...?

The 'Shuk ha Pish Pishim' - from Junk to Treasure at Jaffa's Famous Flea Market

The 'Shuk ha Pish Pishim' - from Junk to Treasure at Jaffa's Famous Flea Market

With its hidden alleyways, antiques stores, and huge open-air market, it's an enormous draw for tourists and locals alike.  The best bargains are to be had early in the day - my friend Yifat, who's a talented jewellery designer, is often down here at 6.30 am, rummaging through boxes and it's astonishing what she's found over the years...

A Pop-Up With a Difference - The Lifeguard Hut Turned Luxury Hotel

A Pop-Up With a Difference - The Lifeguard Hut Turned Luxury Hotel

The rules were simple yet quirky.  Anyone in the world who wanted to take part simply had to dress themselves in beach attire that they’d like to wear on a Tel Aviv beach, and take a picture of themselves in their own city.  The picture had to include them holding up a sign with the hashtag #Takeme2telaviv and be uploaded to Instagram... 

Purim - Israel's most Riotous Holiday - in pictures...

Purim - Israel's most Riotous Holiday - in pictures...

The photos below give you a glimpse into the world of young ‘Tel Avivis’ (as they’re affectionately known) and the costumes they’ve been donning today, for the first of many a party this long weekend.  I could have spent all day out on the streets, but in just an hour or two I saw an array of astonishing get-ups...and here are some of my favourites...

"A Carpet of Red" - it's 'Kalaniot' season in Israel's Negev Desert

"A Carpet of Red" - it's 'Kalaniot' season in Israel's Negev Desert

And down in the Western Negev (particularly around Kibbutzes Ruhama, Beeri and Shukeda) you can’t fail to spot them.  Delicate and graceful, in contrast to the blue and purple kalaniot that grow in the north of Israel, these desert flowers are a vivid red and turn the ordinarily green landscape into a blanket of scarlet...

Saplings and Almond Blossom - Celebrating Israel's New Year for Trees

Saplings and Almond Blossom - Celebrating Israel's New Year for Trees

The roots of the holiday can be traced back several centuries…indeed, academics argue that the original Tu BiSh’vat was an agricultural festival, celebrated to welcome spring.  However, by the beginning of the 20th Century, it took on a practical meaning whenthe Jewish National Fund began putting aside a day each year where people were encouraged to plant eucalyptus trees...  

It's here and it's hip - the Tel Aviv nursery that operates on 'Google' principles...

It's here and it's hip - the Tel Aviv nursery that operates on 'Google' principles...

Looking around the CityKids Nursery School, it's clear that "hover" is not the word of the day.  "We're not big fans of helicopter parenting here, either. We believe that today's child often ends up over-stimulated, a victim of the iPad-iPhone-cable TV culture. We take the view that kids should be transported back to a simpler time, and be allowed to be bored...”

"We're Here to Make Children's Dreams Come True..."

"We're Here to Make Children's Dreams Come True..."

Boaz Kramer has a strong handshake and, as I soon discover, a strong personality. As a CEO, that's perhaps that's a good thing, though the organization he's in charge of is hardly your run-of-the-mill corporation. Kramer is Director of the Israel Sports Centre for the Disabled (Spivak), established over 50 years ago, and offering over 20 different disciplines to both adults and children...

Cowboys, steaks and frontier living...a day in the Golan Heights

Cowboys, steaks and frontier living...a day in the Golan Heights

Mention the word "cowboy" and American prairies, rolling plains and Big Sky country usually come to mind. But think again, because there's actually a landscape thousands of miles from the rugged American West, with dramatic views, cool air and unspoiled countryside. This landscape, three hours north of Tel Aviv, is where Israel's oldest cowboy ranch sits; it too has those wide open spaces, clear night skies and – as the locals boast – some of the best steaks in the country...

Boutique Fashion Tours put Young Israeli Designers on the Map

Boutique Fashion Tours put Young Israeli Designers on the Map

For many people, the term "fashion house" conjures images of stuffy Parisian socialites and a parade of underweight models donning outfits that would hang better on a shower curtain rod than on a real, live human being. But Galit Reismann, founder of TLVstyle, wants to change that. Her business connects individuals and groups to Tel Aviv's fashion scene, with an opportunity for fashion enthusiasts to meet young, up-and-coming designers in their own studios, workshops and apartments...

Taste the Deep South, in Tel Aviv

Taste the Deep South, in Tel Aviv

As you walk through the door, the comforting aroma of brewing coffee combines with the enticing scent of fresh, crumbly chocolate-chip scones. The décor is homey and eclectic, beckoning you in. Behind the counter awaits a tantalizing array of muffins, bagels, cupcakes, buttermilk pancakes and biscuits. Welcome to NOLA Bakery, in the heart of Tel Aviv...

"Cold hands, warm heart..."

"Cold hands, warm heart..."

Vlad Bykanov admits he wasn't a kid who could sit still for more than five minutes. And when you watch a video of him racing round an ice rink, fast enough to make your head spin, you understand why. Because this is a man with a real passion for skating – a passion so great that by the age of 16 he was already competing on the world scene and in his mid-20s representing Israel at the 2014 Sochi Winter Olympics...